Tank Cure is a solvent-free 2 component epoxy coating with excellent fuel-oil resistance. The chemical resistance of this solvent-free 2 component coating is often higher than that of a 1 component coating. For environmental reasons, increasingly higher percentages of Bio-Ethanol have been added to gasoline in recent years. This makes the requirements for the coating increasingly higher.
Tank Cure product has been widely used since 1994. Development and production is in-house which allows us to respond quickly to changes. Think of the addition of Bio-ethanol!
There is more than 25 years of experience with Tank Cure, even with today's fuel types this experience is excellent. However, it is necessary to follow the instructions for use to get the best possible results.
If your tank is rusted, leaking, as a preventive protection or after rechroming, it is recommended to treat the tank with the Tank Cure system (After rechroming, your tank can rust very quickly and strongly).
Is Tank Cure resistant to the current E10 fuel? Yes, Tank Cure is perfectly suitable for tanks filled with E10 fuel. This has been tested by our research department and is regularly retested. This is a continuous process to ensure quality.
NO! Tank Cure has been successfully used in metal tanks for many years! Tanks made of polyethylene and polypropylene ("soft plastic") should not be treated with a Tank Cure system. Adhesion to these types of materials is always very poor.
Do I apply Tank Cure after or before painting the tank? The easiest way is to apply the Tank Cure system first. You then run less risk of damaging the paint. For powder coating, enameling, chrome plating or enameling, first go through the process and then apply the Tank Cure system. High temperatures can soften a Tank Cure coating that has just been applied.
Yes, always. Tanks should always be made grease-free with the Tank Cure Cleaner and rust-proofed or etched with the Tank Cure De-icer before applying a Tank Cure coating.
First clean the tank with Tank Cure Cleaner. Then use gravel or steel parkers to shake off the worst rust and then take it out. The advantage of the parkers is that you can remove them from the tank again with a magnet. Then treat the tank with Tank Cure De-rustorizer. The Tank Cure De-icer works very well at temperatures above 25°C. You may also add the gravel to the Tank Cure Cleaner or the Tank Cure De-roster, note that you still need to remove it from the tank. Then rinse the tank well and force dry before applying the Tank Cure coating.
It is not recommended to use other products in combination with the Tank Cure system. This is to avoid chemical reactions. If you have used other products, we recommend that you rinse the tank thoroughly with water before applying the Tank Cure system.
It is sometimes difficult to estimate the amount of Tank Cure coating required to completely coat your tank. The shape of the tank, partitions, penetrations, etc. affect the amount of Tank Cure coating. Always make sure you have enough material. Guideline numbers for a fuel tank up to about 15 liters: 450 grams, with 600 grams you can treat a fuel tank up to about 25 liters (Depending on the type of fuel tank). Always do the entire tank and not just the parts that are bad.
Yes. Advice: take enough coating, for example at least 600 grams for a small tank. Try to imagine where the coating is somewhere in the tank. That way you can also cover all partitions well. Don't spin too fast, if necessary spin the tank longer to make sure you hit all surfaces. You can continue spinning for up to 30 minutes.
It is recommended that before welding you remove the Tank Cure coating with the Tank Cure Epoxy Remover. Therefore, it is also good to choose a product that you can also remove again.
Perhaps. Use our Tank Cure Epoxy Remover. We have the experience that it often removes other (unknown) products as well. First rinse the tank with water, dry and then apply Tank Cure Epoxy Remover. Follow the instructions for use!
With the Tank Cure Epoxy Remover, you can remove this layer from the tank again. After rinsing thoroughly with water, you can reapply the Tank Cure system.
You can use a plug, tape or gag to close all openings while rotating the Tank Cure products. After application of the Tank Cure coating you can remove these plugs and blow through with a compressor or bicycle pump. Be sure to do this before the Tank Cure coating has cured.
Yes, it is possible to partially make the set. When doing so, make sure you use the correct mixing ratio and weigh the Tank Cure components A and B both on a scale. The mixing ratio is 100 parts by weight of base (A component) and 50 parts by weight of hardener (B component). Of course, you should pre-treat both tanks according to the Tank Cure system.
The minimum processing temperature for working with the Tank Cure system is 20°C. You can mix both components together in the can before mixing this product. To ensure that both products are mixed well, you should then pour the mixture into a clean mixing container and mix it again. After this, you can pour out the Tank Cure coating into your tank and then rotationally apply throughout the tank.
Tank Cure has been specially developed as a chemical-resistant coating for treating the inside of fuel tanks. For other applications, please contact a specialist.
Tank Cure has been specially developed as a chemical-resistant coating for treating the inside of fuel tanks. For treating the outside, you can apply Poly-Pox Primer.
It can vary from one type of paint to another. We recommend always being careful with this and covering the tank with a good sturdy film. In the unlikely event of liquid getting on the tank, remove it immediately with soap and water. The Tank Cure De-icer and the Tank Cure Epoxy Remover are more aggressive than the Tank Cure Cleaner. The Tank Cure coating has no solvents and is not dangerous for the paintwork, but because the adhesion is very good, you can't get it off your paintwork once it has hardened. So you really shouldn't get this product on your paintwork either. If it is not yet cured, you can remove it with acetone. And that is another product that is not really friendly to your paintwork. It is best not to get anything on your paintwork.
